Site Map Contact Us! Click Here! By: Leadfoot Tim Sisco. First off, remove back bumper and unhook tail and tag lights,then remove the 8 bolts holding bed to frame. Then you will need to get it on a hard level surface and remove the fuel tank s ,driveshaft and carrier bearing,but leave rear tires installed.
This will keep the frame supported and level. Check it with a square to make sure it is straight and square to the frame rail. If your are cutting a torch, use the tape lines and mark it with a silver sharpie or chalk and remove tape. If your gonna use a cutoff wheel, use the tape as a guide. Remove all clips connecting to the frame that hold any wires or lines in the designaed cut area and pull the lines away from frame so you can safely cut the frame rail.
Now you are ready to start cutting. In planning your cut try to leave a little mettal that you can remove to make sure everything is square.
Fire up the torch or grinder and carefully cut that section of frame out.
Once it is out you can roll the rear section into place. Care must me taken as to not kink brake lines or crimp wires. Check your fit and grind as needed to get things lined up and square. Using a square across the top of the frame from front to back, side to side, up and down check to see everything is square and level. Use the jack to to correct any issues. Once everything is securely tacked together, re-check in all directions.
After verifying for correctness, weld it all around.
Choppin' Block Full Chassis - 67-72 C10
Leadfoot grinds the weld off of the top and outside of the frame until smooth, then using a patch cut from the section of discarded frame he caps it and then weld the patch thoroughly. Moving to the rear of the frame, the rear crossmember must be relocated. Using a torch heat the rivets glowing red hot and take a large chisel and 2lb.
Hammer and knock the heads off the rivets. Once the rivets are out and the crossmember free, move it forward to the other set of holes in the frame. Using Grade 8 bolts, bolt it back in no drilling required,since the holes are already drilled in the frame.
Holes will have to drilled in the side of the frame to mount the gas tank brackets. You must use a tank from a shortbed truck to accomplish this as the longbed tank is too big to fit.
A short bed will fit as all the bolt holes line up to remount the bed. You also must use a shortbed driveshaft, or have one built. Fuel may need to be modified. Reinstall bumper and hook up lights and your done. Site Map. Best Sellers.What will they come up with next? That seems to be the general idea when it comes to the world of aftermarket parts and components for our favorite muscle cars and recently, trucks. Trucks have come a long way from their intended, utilitarian idea.
What was once relied on to haul goods has now become the new way to strut around the autocross or open track course. While the aftermarket is fat with new bolt-on components for these aging trucks, Roadster Shop has been evolving and looking ahead; completely redesigning the factory truck frame. In high-grip situations, twisting and flexing can wreak havoc on factory components, including some off-the-shelf bolt-on parts.
Be sure to check out the Roadster Shops highly-detailed website for more information on this chassis or other aftermarket components. Build your own custom newsletter with the content you love from Chevy Hardcore, directly to your inbox, absolutely FREE!
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Classic Chevrolet C10 for Sale
TIG wlded, dedicated pattern with vehicle specific design. C6 Corvette spindles. Slined sprung steel sway bars. TIG welded, boxed double shear brackets. Delrin bushings. Latest News. More Stories. Hardcore Chevys in your Inbox. Subscribe Now. We think you might like No thanks. Corvette Enthusiasts. Street Rods.How to make your first post on C10trucks. I have a 67 swb stepside that I am building that has 6 Lug drum brakes no power assist. I also have a swb with disc brake on front drums on rear with anti sway on front and rear body on 85 is crap.
Looking at putting the 67 on the 85 frame. How difficult would this be?
Where Classic Style meets Modern Technology
Posts: 1, Welcome Aboard, I'm not sure if the 85 still has the front crossmember that unbolts. You could check on swapping parts over, if your early C10 frame is in good shape. If not can't imagine it will be that difficult to mount the body on the 85 chassis. As long as Ya don't mind fabricating your own mounts. Keep us posted, and post some pictures! It is always better to keep the original frame. The ''s were good right from the factory.
Roadster Shops C10 Truck Chassis Is A Rolling Fortress
If you want front disc brakes simply update using replacement components, but don't throw the baby out with the bath water. Welcome to the website.
Looks like you have a bitchin' truck there! Frame differences. Sorry trying to make a nice streetable truck. Remove Advertisements.
Send a private message to killerkentc Find all posts by killerkentcWelcome, Guest. Please login or register. NorthernMainer Newbie Posts: 13 Newbie. Hey folks, well there is a chill in the air so another month or two, and my 82 c10 will be off the road for the winter. My plans are to restore it, and add some power. Part of my plan is to shorten the frame, I looked for a Does anyone have a link, or has done this themselves that has advice, and maybe some pictures of the process?
I saw one link on google but it showed the guy cutting the frame straight through instead of "stepping" it as I call it. Awesome, thank you for posting that! Did you search the site, this comes up often Chris Lucas chevytrucks captkaoscustoms squarebody. Quote from: Captkaos on August 08,PM. Northern Mainer, I'm getting ready to do this very same mod. Should be a blast!
Quote from: moregrip on August 08,PM. Quote from: moregrip on August 09,AM. Quote from: moregrip on August 10,AM. Quote from: roundhouse on August 10,PM. There are many reasons one may want to modify their frame as opposed to buying another. For me, I loved my truck, factory big block 74 GMC, many unique reasons and sentimental, numbers match etc. Swapping frames was not on my radar plus I was building a 4-link, making it look stealth no bolt on brackets and doing other modifications so a frame swap brought no advantages.
So if it makes sense, do it but just do it right. As far as that kit, I don't know anything about it but it looks decent aside from the branding which is pretty ugly imo but not all spring hanger mounts are the same. That looks strictly 81 up half ton 2wd to me so if you have an earlier frame I don't think that will work, just throwing that out there before someone sees this, buys it and is disappointed. Do they offer other versions for other configurations? What is the built by brooks kit?
Or better yet where do you find it so I can check it out. Here's a pic of the kit: you can contact him on Instagram, at least that's how I did it how much is that kit? I messaged him, but if it's cheap enough I'll just do that instead of doing all the work myself. Sent from my SM-GU using Tapatalk I wouldn't call the kit cheap but more of a fair price for what appears to be a solid product.On Sale.
Garage Sale. Help is just a click away! Products to Compare max of 3 X. Classic Truck. Chassis and Suspension. You've Selected:. Clear All. Select Your Vehicle. See More Filters. Sort by: Relevance Selected. Show: 30 Results. Complete Suspension Kits. Control Arms. Coil Springs and Accessories. Leaf Springs and Accessories. Air Suspension. Sway Bars. Suspension Bushings. Alignment Kits and Tools. Roll Cage. Ball Joints and Accessories. Lubricant, Grease, Compounds. Pull Bars and Accessories.
Part Ships Free. Quick View. Part CAL3. Part CSR4. Part TN Part LB63LK.When they were first produced the need for a truck was to work out of or carry a camper in the bed, so most of the models made were long bed versions while the short bed numbers were few and far between. This has made short bed models worth more later on based by their limited production, and the desire to use them as daily transportation.
However because of the low production runs, finding an affordable short bed model in good shape seems to be going the way of the dodo bird. So what about converting a long bed to a short bed? But where can you find the sheet metal for the short bed and what about the frame?
The good news is reproduction sheet metal is available from Classic Industries for these models, as well as a bolt on, back half frame kit from No Limit Engineering.
The best part about using this combo is the difference in initial cost to purchase a rust free long bed, covert the frame to a short bed, and buy the reproduction sheet metal can save you some money and or end up with a cleaner truck in the long run if you were to look for a clean factory short bed. Now this conversion might seem like a lot of hard work that involves heavy fabrication tools and or skills that many might not have.
Plus, the advantages of using Classic Industries sheet metal is no rust repair which means less body work that will save you so major time and a ton of money. It was in great shape and even had a good engine in it.
The precision cuts that this type of equipment makes is fascinating yet confusing as Rob swore to us that this piece really becomes a frame rail. To clear up the confusion Rob directed us over to where Bill was setting up the press brake. Here in the photos we can see an example of him bending out one of the cross-members that laterally holds the main rails together. Now you can compare an example of the piece that Rob cut using the laser table, to another rail that was cut and bend into a frame rail using the press brake.
You too can get your hands on the same kit shipped right to your front door with a click of a mouse. A few guys and the better part of the weekend will get the job done just fine.
We moved the chassis over to the assembly room and figured that the easiest way to remove the rear suspension was to drop the shocks, Panhard bar and the top spring plates that attach the springs to the frame. Next we unbolted the two bolts that hold the trailing arms in place to the trailing arm cross-member and rolled out the whole thing in one piece.
Next we double checked to see that the chassis was level, and began to measure out where to cut the frame just past the rear cab mount.
Measuring twice to cut once, we ran the reciprocating saw blade down the mark on both sides until the frame was in two pieces! In this photo you can see the difference between the stock long bed frame section on the left to the new frame section from No Limit on the right.
We found that the simple way to install the rails was to locate the factory holes on the top and bottom of the stock frame just past the cab mount. Then slide on one frame rail at a time and bolt them together. Next mark, clamp, and drill out the rest on the mounting holes that are indexed on the No Limit frame rail through the stock frame. Run in the fasteners in to ensure that you get in tight fit then remove the rails to install the cross-members off the truck.Shortening the frame of a longbed truck down to the specs of a shortbed isn't exactly a new idea, in fact, we've even done just that in years' past.
When I originally set out to look for a project truck, I purposely looked for a longbed, not only because I'm cheap, but because I wanted to show you great readers just what could be done to one. I made the promise not to immediately cut it up as I wanted to get it to a somewhat finished level before doing so. Well, the time has come and I've put about 5, miles on the old Laggard Longbed, so suffice to say, it's time to get a cuttin'. Cutting down a longbed frame to shortbed specs isn't rocket science per se, for all that's required is to take a inch section out of the middle and an 8-inch section of the back, pretty straight forward come to think of it.
There are, however, a couple different locations on the framerails where it's possible to remove the inch section required to trim the wheelbase down from inches to the shortbed's specs of inches. One is to remove the section from in between the cab mounts, directly under the cab. This makes the job nice and easy as the frame is perfectly straight here, giving you plenty of area in which to work.
It also retains the stock crossmember in the back portion of the frame, alleviating the job of removing all those rivets and moving the crossmember itself. Simply hack out the inch section, along with the cab mount and slide everything forward. The front bed mount needs to be removed and the cab mount reattached once the frame is moved forward, but all in all it's a pretty simple task.
That is, however, unless the cab and front sheetmetal need to stay in place. Then it becomes awfully difficult. Originally, that was our plan when we teamed up with Brothers Trucks to do this story. They hooked us up with everything we needed for the chassis, including a cab mount kit, new rear cab mounts, and boxing plates for the frame, as well as a new bed assembly. Upon further inspection, however, it became painfully obvious that it was going to be too much work to try to remove everything that stood in our way in order to make the cuts under the cab.
It simply turned a two-day job into a week-plus affair by the time you factored in gapping and bolting back up all the sheetmetal. Shifting gears, we decided to take the section out from between the cab mount and what will become the front bed mount, right in front of the rear kick.
As it turns out, the existing front bed mount gets cast aside and the second bed mount scoots forward exactly 12 inches to take its place. The rear cab mount needs to be removed as the front cut line is right through its location, but it's easily reattached in the same spot once the front and rear frame halves are reattached. The only drawback for stock applications is that the trailing arm crossmember will need to be relocated. In our case, this was a simple task as we had previously installed a CPP bolt-in crossmember.
If you've got a stock crossmember, this would be a good time to swap it out with a new CPP unit. This also yielded a little bonus once I started mapping out where the crossmember would be relocated.
Given the proximity to the seam and using the boxing plates provided by Brothers, I'd be able to mate the boxing plates to the crossmember while completely traversing the cutline, making a super strong structure over the entire area.
I love it when a plan works out! Of course all this cuttin' and grindin' isn't just done for fun; there are a few arguments to be made in favor of both. For starters, I really enjoyed the 8-foot longbed when it came to hauling stuff and it rode really nice given the long wheelbase and extra weight.